Mastering the Kilter Board

Written by:
Horace Moy
This guide will walk you through how to use the Kilter Board, training benefits and more!

Mastering the Kilter Board: A Comprehensive Guide

The Kilter Board is revolutionising the climbing world, offering a versatile and customisable training tool for climbers of all levels. This LED-lit board, controlled via a mobile app, provides an array of climbing challenges with adjustable angles and holds, making it a perfect fit for anyone looking to improve their climbing skills. This guide will walk you through how to use the Kilter Board, its benefits for training, and tips for making the most out of this innovative climbing tool.

Starting June 24th, Font Wandsworth will host the largest Kilter Board available, measuring 16x12 feet and adjustable to various angles. Located in the Wandsworth this new addition to The Font is just another feather adding to the Fonts wide offering making it a premier destination for indoor rock climbers and fitness lovers alike!

Getting Started with the Kilter Board

1. Download the App To begin, download the Kilter Board app on your smartphone. This app will serve as your command centre for connecting to the board and selecting climbing problems.

2. Connect via Bluetooth Ensure your phone's Bluetooth is enabled. Follow the instructions provided by Font Wandsworth staff to pair your phone with the Kilter Board.

3. Set the Board Our Kilter Board’s angle can be hydraulically adjusted between 15 and 60 degrees. Choose the current angle of the board in the app to match its physical setting.

4. Find Climbing Problems Use the app to browse through thousands of boulder problems. You can filter these by grade, ensuring you find challenges that suit your skill level. Problems are colour-coded: green for start holds, yellow for feet only, blue for hands and feet, and purple for finish holds.

5. Load and Climb Once you’ve selected a problem, tap the lightbulb icon to illuminate the holds on the board. Begin your climb by starting on the green holds, follow the blue holds, use yellow holds for your feet only, and finish by matching both hands on the purple hold.

6. Log Your Ascents After completing a climb, log your ascent in the app. You can record your attempts, rate the problem, and leave notes.

Training Benefits of the Kilter Board

Consistent Problem Availability One of the standout features of the Kilter Board is that the problems never get reset. This allows climbers to project specific routes over long periods, facilitating consistent progress and mastery.

Enhancing Power The powerful routes set on the Kilter Board are designed to boost explosive strength, an essential component for both bouldering and roped climbing.

Building Core Strength While off-wall core exercises are beneficial, nothing beats the sport-specific core training that climbing offers. The Kilter Board’s steep angles demand significant body tension, improving your ability to use core strength effectively. This practice translates to better control on flatter surfaces.

Increasing Finger Strength The Kilter Board features a wide range of crimps, from juggy to tiny holds. This variety helps climbers develop finger strength and contact strength, as dynamic moves to small crimps require substantial grip power.

Developing Dynamic Power The diversity of holds allows climbers to practice dynamic movements on different types of holds. This helps in developing strength and technique for various climbing scenarios. Climbers can set their own dynamic problems, focusing on specific movements such as dynos and coordination moves. Practising these dynamic movements on the Kilter Board is safer than outdoors, reducing the risk of injuries from falls.

Practical Tips for Using the Kilter Board

Setting Problems To set a new boulder problem, tap the + icon in the app, select the desired holds, and test your climb. You can save it as a draft until you are satisfied, then name and publish it for others to try.

Training Dynamic Moves Dynamic moves require a mix of strength, coordination, balance, and precision. Use the Kilter Board to practice these moves safely. This training will enhance your overall climbing performance.

Adhering to Etiquette

  • Stay clear of the mats and fall zones when not climbing.
  • Keep personal items away from the climbing area.
  • Wait your turn and don’t cut in line.
  • Avoid lighting up your problem while someone else is climbing.
  • Only offer climbing advice (beta) if asked.
  • Brush the holds regularly to maintain grip.

Utilising the App’s Features

  • Use the app to find the nearest Kilter Board, such as at Font Wandsworth.
  • Follow the rules: use only the lit holds, avoid unlit holds, and ensure proper starting and finishing positions.
  • Log your climbs accurately to track progress and contribute to the community consensus on problem grades.

Why Train on the Kilter Board at Font Wandsworth?

A State-of-the-Art Facility Font Wandsworth is proud to host London’s premier Kilter Board, the largest size available at 16x12 feet and adjustable to multiple angles. This cutting-edge board will be available from June 24th, making it the perfect time to enhance your training regimen.

A Versatile Training Tool Whether you are a seasoned climber or a beginner, the Kilter Board offers a wide range of problems to suit all skill levels. With thousands of routes available through the app, you can continuously challenge yourself and track your progress.

Focus on Key Training Components

  1. Power: The Kilter Board’s powerful routes are specifically designed to improve explosive strength, which is crucial for both bouldering and roped climbing.
  2. Core Strength: Climbing on the Kilter Board engages your core more effectively than off-wall exercises. The steep angles necessitate body tension, helping you develop sport-specific core strength that translates to better performance on all types of terrain.
  3. Finger Strength: The variety of crimps available on the Kilter Board aids in building finger strength and contact strength. This is essential for dynamic climbing moves and overall grip strength.
  4. Dynamic Power: Practising dynamic movements, such as dynos and coordination moves, on the Kilter Board helps you develop a combination of strength, coordination, balance, and precision. Training these movements indoors is safer and allows for repeated practice without the risks associated with outdoor climbing.

A Social Training EnvironmentThe Kilter Board is not only a training tool but also a social hub. Its connectivity allows multiple users to connect their phones at once, enabling climbers of all levels to gather around, share problems, and cheer each other on. This makes the Kilter Board a great way to meet fellow climbers, share tips, and foster a sense of community. Climbing at the Font Wandsworth means becoming part of a vibrant climbing community. Share tips, log ascents, and engage with other climbers through the Kilter Board app!

Written by:
Horace Moy
Published on:
June 8, 2024